New book celebrates American Rhône ‘mavericks’ Gary Eberle, Tablas Creek
Those looking for some holiday reading or a last-minute gift for the wine-lover on their list may want to check out a new book featuring several San Luis Obispo County winemakers and wineries.
“American Rhône: How Maverick Winemakers Changed the Way Americans Drink,” by wine writer Patrick Comiskey, chronicles the rise of Rhône varietal wines in the United States, including key players and developments in San Luis Obispo County. Among them: syrah, grenache, viognier and others prolific in Paso Robles and Edna Valley.
“Patrick’s book is a real marker point for the American Rhône movement, which was on the fringes of the mainstream for so long but is now such an important part of the wine culture here in the Central Coast,” said Jason Haas, partner and general manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard, which figures prominently in the tale. “The book is a great window into the many passionate advocates who brought this movement out of the fringes and who continue to propel it forward today.”
Paving the path for the movement, both Haas and the book contend, were wild leaps of faith in the early days by pioneers including Gary Eberle. In a chapter called “Syrah’s Proud Father,” Comiskey argues that modern American syrah may never have taken off without Eberle’s early plantings and advocacy.
Alban Vineyards’ John Alban and Saxum Vineyards’ Justin Smith are referenced throughout the book, as are many winemakers in the neighboring Santa Ynez and Monterey regions. The American Haas and French Perrin families’ contributions are detailed in a chapter titled “Tablas Creek: The Validator.”
“Their efforts lent legitimacy to this ragtag collection of upstarts and mavericks, providing a reliable genetic material from a legitimate and respected Rhône Valley source, an unassailable foundation from which they could be taken seriously,” Comiskey writes. “It was a sign to the American wine industry that the category had global significance.”
Many industry observers assert that Paso Robles’ success with Rhône varietals is what helped the region step out from Napa Valley’s shadow, and “American Rhône” explores that history in detail.
The book ($34.95), published by University of California Press, is available from the publisher and from Amazon in hardcover and digital editions.
Sally Buffalo writes about wine, beer and spirits. Reach her at sallybuffalo@gmail.com or on Twitter@sallybuffalo.
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This story was originally published December 20, 2016 at 8:57 PM with the headline "New book celebrates American Rhône ‘mavericks’ Gary Eberle, Tablas Creek."