Photos from the Vault

Hearst Castle is reopening soon — but how did it become a state monument in the first place?

Hearst Castle has been a world class museum, open to the public for longer now than it served as a private residence.

The Castle along scenic Highway 1 is one of the top drivers of San Luis Obispo County’s tourism economy, though it has been closed for the past two years due to the coronavirus pandemic and roadwork.

The amazing hilltop estate is expected to reopen again in May.

It is easy to take for granted public access to the mansion, but there were times even that the agreement was at risk.

Fortunately the issues were resolved and the state monument opened to the public in June 1958.

The house is a real estate tour unlike any other.

Hearst Castle’s main structure, known as the Casa Grande, and guest houses each have a unique floral color palette. The Castle is expected to reopen soon after the coronavirus pandemic shut it down for two years.
Hearst Castle’s main structure, known as the Casa Grande, and guest houses each have a unique floral color palette. The Castle is expected to reopen soon after the coronavirus pandemic shut it down for two years. David Middlecamp dmiddlecamp@thetribunenews.com

In fact it takes several different tours to get a complete picture.

Architect Julia Morgan artfully designed and engineered an idealized European village, built with input from William Randolph Hearst.

One antique dealer alone, Mitchell Samuels, sold Hearst $8 million in tapestries, furniture and other art objects.

In the early 20th century, mining heir and media mogul Hearst was buying a large percentage of antiques on the world market for his various mansions.

The residence closest to his heart was San Simeon’s La Cuesta Encantada (which translates to “Enchanted Hill”).

Starting in 1919, there were between 25 and 150 workers on site and up to 20 gardeners, according to biographer W.A. Swanberg.

Often the design was influenced by his ever-growing collection of antiques from Egypt to Europe.

Architect Morgan used skill to blend the unrelated items.

The Aquabatix synchronized swimmers practice their routine at Hearst Castle in San Simeon before a gathering to celebrate the restoration and reopening of the Neptune Pool.
The Aquabatix synchronized swimmers practice their routine at Hearst Castle in San Simeon before a gathering to celebrate the restoration and reopening of the Neptune Pool. David Middlecamp dmiddlecamp@thetribunenews.com

For example, look carefully at the six granite columns on the much photographed Neptune Pool temple. They are not matched, and likely were sourced from different buildings.

And the pool we see today is actually the third iteration, a 345,000-gallon, Vermont-marble-lined celebration of Greco-Roman mythology.

Work stalled during a Depression-era business slump and World War II, but when he could, minor additions were made until Hearst’s death on Aug. 14, 1951.

In his last years, he lived in Los Angeles to be closer to medical care.

According to Swanberg, just before he died Hearst asked a friend, “Please stop at San Simeon and look the place over. I want to be sure that everything is right there.”

The transition to a state historical monument was a process of years of negotiations as seen in this March 8, 1957, Telegram-Tribune article (edited for length):

An undated aerial photograph of Hearst Castle as clouds form over Santa Lucia Range.
An undated aerial photograph of Hearst Castle as clouds form over Santa Lucia Range. Tribune File

Hearst Castle may soon go to state

The fabulous “La Cuesta Encantada,” the Hearst Castle, is expected to be transferred to ownership of the state of California through conferences being held here today.

Heirs of the Hearst estate, including the sons of the late publisher, William Randolph Hearst, huddled with Newton B. Drury, chief state division of beaches and parks, to reach agreement on the plan, which was first advanced three years ago.

If all points are resolved today, the Castle will become a museum and park under state jurisdiction, management and maintenance.

The California state legislature, under joint resolution, has already accepted the gift which was offered by Hearst heirs.

The negotiations involve only the Castle and the immediately adjacent garden and land. The remainder of the vast estate will be continued as an operation of the Sunical Land and Livestock department of the Hearst operation.

Negotiations for the transfer were reopened shortly after final settlement of the $59 million estate, and numerous conferences have been held leading up to today’s showdown discussions.

It was indicated that prior obstacles in the path of the transfer have been ironed out, particularly the involvement of the state and federal tax matters.

An undated Hearst Castle tour group in the Refectory, named for the resemblance to a monastic dining hall, in the main house and was the only dining room on the hill. This undated photo appears to be from the 1970s.
An undated Hearst Castle tour group in the Refectory, named for the resemblance to a monastic dining hall, in the main house and was the only dining room on the hill. This undated photo appears to be from the 1970s. Tribune File

Numerous civic groups have endorsed the project, and its support was given impetus by full-scale recommendation by the state Chamber of Commerce.

State senator A.A. Erhart has been continuously active in seeking the project and breaking the stalemate in which it had remained for several years.

The San Luis Obispo County Board of Supervisors recently authorized construction of a new pier at San Simeon, enhancing the area further for the tourist trade.

The William Randolph Hearst Memorial Park on the San Simeon shore, a gift of land from the Hearst estate, is maintained by the county of San Luis Obispo.

David Middlecamp
The Tribune
David Middlecamp is a photojournalist and third-generation Cal Poly graduate who has covered the Central Coast region since the 1980s. A career that began developing and printing black-and-white film now includes an FAA-certified drone pilot license. He also writes the history column “Photos from the Vault.”
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