Linda Lewis Griffith

SLO woman’s quest to recreate Mom’s Jell-O salad offers a Christmas challenge

This Jell-O salad was a holiday season staple of Linda Lewis Griffith’s childhood. It features pineapple and pecans.
This Jell-O salad was a holiday season staple of Linda Lewis Griffith’s childhood. It features pineapple and pecans.

Mom made the perfect Jell-O salad. Like so many homemakers of the 1950s and ‘60s, she served her family brightly colored, shimmering gelatin concoctions several times each week.

Sometimes they were filled with fruit cocktail. At other times, the salads layered with cottage cheese.

Most were served atop a single leaf of iceberg lettuce. Jell-O salads were synonymous with dinner.

During the holidays, the Jell-O salad was elevated to an art form.

Mom’s special recipe included Coca Cola, tart canned cherries, crushed pineapple and pecans. It was as festive and integral to the meal as the turkey or prime rib.

So, it was a no-brainer when my sister-in-law and I decided to recreate Mom’s famed salad for Christmas dinner a few years back.

I didn’t have the exact recipe. But how hard could it be?

I bought some packets of Jell-O and a few cans of fruit. I boiled water, stirred it into the powder, added some pineapple, let it set and voila! I had a gloppy, runny mess that went directly down the disposal.

My sister-in-law fared no better. The lovely, glistening Jell-O salad that Mom so effortlessly prepared was harder than either of us imagined.

We reverted to green salads that Christmas. Jell-O had defeated us both.

The next year I was even more determined.

Armed now with a copy of Mom’s hand-written recipe, I headed out to the store. But my hopes were quickly dashed.

Markets no longer carry tart cherries. The desired raspberry flavor was nonexistent. Dismayed, I settled for strawberry-flavored Jell-O and forgot completely about the fruit.

The end result? Another failure. The score was Jell-O salad 2, Linda 0. I wasn’t even giving it a fair fight.

Now, I’m not a novice cook. I know my way around a kitchen. I’ve made yogurt from scratch for years. I preserve fruits and vegetables from my garden. I peruse the New York Times cooking app on a daily basis.

I also know that Jell-O salad was one of the first dishes I learned to make when I was a child. Then it was second nature, like slathering peanut butter on a piece of bread or heating a can of Campbell’s chicken noodle soup.

So, I wasn’t ready to admit defeat. I knew Jell-O salad could be mastered.

I decided to try one more time. This time I left out all bizarre ingredients; tart cherries and Coca Cola got the ax.

Next, I followed the directions on the package with precision. Boil. Stir. Dissolve. Cool slightly. Add canned pineapple and pecans. Pour into mold. Chill.

And…

Success! The result was the most beautiful holiday salad imaginable. It glistened. It shimmered. It was candy apple red.

Plus, it slid from its mold onto the iceberg lettuce-festooned tray with the greatest of ease.

Everyone oohed and aahed over that Christmas salad.

Jello hadn’t been on the menu since our mother passed away 17 years ago. Having it on the table felt oh so right.

I beamed like the winning chef on “Hell’s Kitchen.”

Of course, Jell-O doesn’t appear on the daily menu anymore. Salads at our home nowadays focus on leafy greens, not jiggly gelatin.

But for a brief time at the holidays, tradition matters more than nutrition. And Mom’s Jell-O salad was just what we needed.

Linda Lewis Griffith is a retired marriage, family and child therapist who lives in San Luis Obispo. Reach her at lindalewisgriffith@sbcglobal.net.
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