Paso Robles burger joint brings American favorites to Central Coast — ‘like playing the hits’
Jack Alger views burgers as an “open medium” — one that allows him to take some of the country’s most classic flavor combinations and translate them into something new just by placing the ingredients between two buns.
Perhaps that philosophy is why his Paso Robles restaurant, Mutiny Burger, has amassed a cult following in a little less than a year.
Mutiny Burger opened at 1104 Pine St. in the fall of 2021. Since then, the eatery has since amassed a dedicated customer base both locally and online. As of Monday, the restaurant had more than 1,200 followers on Instagram and dozens of 5-star reviews on Yelp.
“People are usually very happy with it,” Alger said of the restaurant’s menu. “It’s kind of like playing (the) hits, you know what I mean?”
So what is the secret ingredient in Mutiny Burger’s success? It’s a whole lot of travel and a dash of culinary thievery, he said.
Paso Robles restaurant inspired by founder’s life on the road
Mutiny Burger’s menu takes inspiration from Alger’s time on the road as a national brand representative for Petaluma-based Lagunitas Brewing Company, he told The Tribune.
For years, Alger traveled with his dog, Sosa, in his sprinter van helping to build brand visibility for Lagunitas and making relationships with restaurants and distributors across the nation.
“I started noticing that each area of the country had their secret way of eating something and drinking something,” Alger said. “I didn’t realize I was going to make a restaurant out of it.”
In early 2020, Alger relocated from Sonoma County to the Central Coast for his work as a brand development manager for a few cannabis companies.
Then coronavirus-related shutdowns ground the cannabis industry to a halt in March 2020, leaving Alger bored and looking for a new venture.
Enter burgers.
Alger decided to create an eatery based on the most authentic expression of burgers, sandwiches and other regional culinary favorites, he said.
“Thinking about all the travels and regional things that I knew, maybe I can create some kind of restaurant or bar that has a collection of all these things to one place,” Alger said.
Mutiny Burger’s website describes that idea more fully.
“What if we opened up a burger joint that made the greatest regional burgers from all over the country?” the restaurant’s website says. “What if we stole classic flavor combinations from all over the world and recreated them in burger form? What if we could make some of ‘em better? This challenge has hooked us.”
Menu features beloved burgers from Oklahoma to Oakland
Alger said most people who stop by Mutiny Burger for the first time “start basic.”
Eventually, they begin trusting the chef’s palates and will branch out to try some of the more offbeat specials, he said.
Mutiny Burger has five sandwiches that are always on the menu — three with meat and two plant-based, plus a weekly special and countless inventive add-ons so diners can build their own burger if they want.
The burger that set the standard for the restaurant is the Oklahoma burger — a 100% beef burger smashed with grilled onion paired with American cheese and a pink sauce.
Alger got the idea from Sid’s Diner, a locals-only spot off Oklahoma State Highway 66 in El Reno, Oklahoma, Alger said.
That type of burger was initially created during tough economic times, he said, when cooks incorporated grilled onions with the beef to add bulk without breaking the bank on expensive meat.
“It’s this beautiful, kind of simple burger,” Alger said, and Sid’s Diner has “been doing it as long as anybody.”
Alger said trying a Sid’s Diner burger got him thinking about all the delicious, regional favorites he experienced in his travels.
“Traveling around, I learned to appreciate those little things that were unique to those regions,” he said.
Another Mutiny Burger offering, The Bird, pays homage to a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich first developed by East Bay Area culinary titan and Chez Panisse founder Alice Waters, Alger said.
The Mutiny Burger version of the Chez Panisse sandwich can be made the classic way or Nashville hot chicken style, but it is always topped with a jalapeno slaw, he said.
“That chicken sandwich was so important to me,” Alger said. “It’s that classic thing that nodded back to when people took more time with their food.”
Mutiny Burger is not just for the carnivores.
“I’m wide open to eating vegetables,” Alger said, who designed the menu to feature plenty of plant-based options for vegan and vegetarian diners.
One of his favorite sandwiches on the menu is The Plant, which was inspired by a veggie burger he had at Planta restaurant in Miami Beach.
“They make one of the best bean burgers I ever had,” Alger said.
How Mutiny Burger replicates popular dishes, flavors
So how does Mutiny Burgers replicate these popular dishes?
Most of the reimagined burgers and sandwiches at Mutiny Burger were based on memories of the flavor profile and dining experience, Alger said.
In some cases, his team also reviewed cookbooks, searched online or even called the chefs directly to get tips.
“A lot of people put their stuff out there pretty openly,” he said.
The restaurant also offers a rotating list of over-the-top specials inspired by the burgers and sandwiches from pop culture — such as the Big Kahuna Burger from the film “Pulp Fiction” or the McRib from McDonald’s.
Sometimes, the Mutiny Burger team will take a cuisine that isn’t typically served as a burger or sandwich and transform it into one. In the case of the Mexican Birria, a mixture that’s typically served as a stew or taco filling has been reimagined as a burger.
Patrons can wash it all down with a rotating list of San Luis Obispo County beers and ciders, as well as familiar options such as Hamm’s. Wine from Central Coast winemakers is on the menu as well, plus non-alcoholic beverages.
Mutiny Burger is open 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m and 5 to 8 p.m. Wednesday to Sunday. For more information, call 805-805-296-3471 or visit mutinyburger.com.
This story was originally published August 2, 2022 at 5:00 AM.
