Here is this week’s weather forecast by PG&E meteorologist John Lindsey.
Monday morning’s moderate gale-force to fresh gale-force northwesterly (32- to 46-mph) winds along the coastline will decrease in the afternoon into the night.
A high-pressure ridge will build over Nevada this week and is expected to produce persistent Santa Lucia (northeasterly) winds. This condition will give dry weather Tuesday into Friday, with cold mornings. In fact, the North County will drop into the mid-20s by Wednesday and Thursday, and it’ll be in the low 30s in the coastal valleys. Low temperatures along the beaches will lower to the mid- to high 30s.
The long-range models and charts are advertising a wet and unsettled weather pattern developing this weekend with increasing southerly winds and the potential for rain along the Central Coast and snow in the Sierra Nevada. In fact, this unsettled weather pattern may persist into Christmas.
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Monday’s surf report
Moderate gale-force to fresh gale-force (32- to 46-mph) northwesterly winds along the California coastline on Monday morning will generate a 12- to 14-foot northwesterly (320-degree, deepwater) sea and swell (with a 5- to 15-second period). This northwesterly sea and swell is expected to lower to 8- to 10-feet (with a 7- to 12-second period) Tuesday.
A powerful 924-millibar storm developed along the Aleutian Islands on Saturday and generated huge seas. In fact, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s Central Aleutians marine buoy, 230 nautical miles southwest of Dutch Harbor, reached 54 feet with a 19-second period before the buoy was lost. Long-period waves, also called forecast forerunners, from this storm with intervals of more than 27 seconds will arrive along our coastline Tuesday night, peaking Wednesday at 9 to 11 feet with a 20-second period. These extraordinarily long-interval waves will travel across the vast expanses of the Pacific at more than 30 knots. This swell will decrease to 7 to 9 feet (with a 16- to 18-second period) Thursday.
A 5- to 7-foot (295-degree, deepwater) swell (with an 8- to 15-second period) is forecast for our coastline Friday.
Increasing southerly (295-degree, shallow-water) seas and westerly swell is forecast for Saturday into Sunday.
Seawater temperatures are expected to range between 57 and 60 degrees through Thursday, decreasing on Friday.
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At PG&E, your safety is our first concern. Wednesday’s long-period ocean swell will probably create “sneaker” waves that can inundate beaches and pull people into the water. Please, never turn your back on the ocean. These long-period waves can also produce strong rip currents along many of our beaches. If you’re caught in a rip current, swim in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim at an angle — away from the current — toward shore.
This week’s temperatures
LOWS AND HIGHS, SLO AND COASTAL VALLEYS
LOWS AND HIGHS, PASO ROBLES