Wine

Friday, Jun. 26, 2009

The Grapevine: Season calls for a crisp white wine

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I’m not much of a fan of heavy, high-alcohol white wines at any time of year, but I really avoid them when the weather gets hot. In summer, I look for crisp, flavorful whites that are refreshing, not exhausting. I tend to eat lighter foods, too, and these summertime whites pair well with salads and fresh vegetables.

So, this Fourth of July, declare your independence from oaky, high-alcohol white wines. What follows are my suggestions for refreshing summer whites, all of which cost $20 or less. And since this is an all-American holiday, I’m limiting my selections to domestic whites. (But if you want to sip a zingy German riesling or fragrant New Zealand sauvignon blanc, I won’t turn you in.)

SAUVIGNON BLANC: A crisp, aromatic sauvignon blanc is one of my favorite wines for summer. One good buy is the 2008 Concannon Sauvignon Blanc ($10), with notes of pink grapefruit and tomato stalk. The 2008 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc ($20) from the Napa Valley is a little more tropical, with passion fruit along with the typical pink grapefruit. From the Russian River Valley, the 2008 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc ($19) is a little spritzy, with zingy citrus and honeydew melon flavors.

RIESLING: Riesling is a good choice with spicy food. Just be sure to select a wine with sufficient acidity to balance the sweetness. A couple of good ones from Monterey: the 2008 Blackstone Riesling ($12), which displays juicy spiced apple and lime flavors and some weight, and the 2008 Ventana Vineyards Riesling ($18), a spicy wine with white stone fruit and a hint of lime.

CHARDONNAY: Chardonnay isn’t the first white wine I reach for in the summer, but there are some refreshing examples that would pair well with grilled fish or shellfish. For a true bargain, there’s the 2008 Black Box Monterey County Chardonnay ($25 for 3 liters, the equivalent of $6.25 a bottle). It’s fresh and racy, with lemon and golden Delicious apple flavors. Some other good choices are the 2007 Clos du Bois North Coast Chardonnay ($15), with its crisp apple and pear flavors and some toasty notes in the background, and the 2007 Cambria Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($19), a citrusy wine with green apple and some oak.

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO: A lot of pinot gris (which also goes by its Italian name, pinot grigio) just isn’t very interesting. But the 2008 Blackstone Pinot Grigio ($12) is crisp and citrusy, with white stone fruit and almond paste flavors. Or, try a pair of wines from Monterey County: The 2008 Ventana Vineyards Pinot Gris ($18) is fragrant and round, with white peach, pear and a touch of citrus, while the 2008 Morgan Winery R&D Franscioni Vineyard Pinot Gris ($17) has a lean, racy core of citrus and pear, wrapped in some nice fleshiness.

Laurie Daniel writes a weekly column on wine. E-mail her at ladaniel@ earthlink.net.