Entertainment - Dining

Thursday, Aug. 20, 2009

Tina's Place in Santa Margarita offers classic country fare

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There are times when a light bite will do, and there are times when you need a big plate of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food put in front of you. Though Tina’s Place in Santa Margarita can certainly serve up the former, it’s a perfect place for the latter.

Tina Reynolds and her husband, Jeff, already owned the Breakfast Buzz in San Luis Obispo (and Chico), but “we were looking for another breakfast and lunch place.” Their search was over about three years ago, when a restaurant then called Joe’s Roundup became available.

“We always liked Santa Margarita,” said Reynolds. “It’s got a great small-town feel, and there’s a very regular clientele of ranchers and farmers.”

Indeed, there are some customers who eat at Tina’s twice a day, but everyone is absorbed equally into the cafe’s friendly atmosphere whether you’re an occasional diner or one of the loyal locals.

When they took over the Santa Margarita eatery, the Reynoldses wisely took the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” approach. They kept the Western-themed interior, and also stuck with serving breakfast or lunch all day from the straightforward, hearty, down-home menu.

“It is pretty basic, mostly meat and eggs, but the clientele likes what they like, and they’ve been coming here a lot longer than we’ve owned it — it’s its own place,” said Reynolds.

The Reynoldses tried substituting a slightly smaller ham steak in the lineup, “but that didn’t last long.” However, a couple new items they brought over from The Buzz that did make the grade are the hefty breakfast burritos and the tasty AvoCosmic burger with avocado, bacon and Swiss and American cheeses.

Beyond that, the menu has pretty much stayed the same, including the return of those original enormous ham slabs that cover an entire plate. All manner of egg dishes and combos are available, from pork chops and eggs, to scrambles and four-egg omelettes, to steak and eggs — as in ribeye steak or country-fried steak.

Breakfast choices also include biscuits and gravy, a must-have in a restaurant like this, and this version doesn’t disappoint. Pancakes, French toast and waffles are up for grabs as well, and you can order them piled high with strawberries when the berries are in season.

No one will be going hungry for lunch at Tina’s Place, either. Burgers are popular, as are the “Roper’s Sandwiches,” which include everything from a French Dip to a tuna melt to a club sandwich. Hearty eaters will enjoy the Cattleman’s Special with roast beef, Swiss cheese and grilled onions on sourdough with fries, but smaller appetites can order just a grilled cheese or half of a cold-cut sandwich.

The south-of-the-border palate gets a nod on both sides of the menu as well, with chorizo and eggs and even enchiladas available at breakfast, and a chile verde burrito with rice and beans at lunch. Among the restaurant’s most popular daily specials is the all-you-can-eat beef tacos on Tuesdays.

One thing the Reynoldses did know they were going to change when they took over Joe’s Roundup was the name. However, as they did with the menu and restaurant concept, they decided to go with what their customers wanted.

“We had some ideas in mind,” said Reynolds, “so we started asking people in the restaurant about them, and everyone pretty much said, ‘It really doesn’t matter what you call it. We’re just going to call it Tina’s anyway.’ ”