You are here: Wine

Published: Sunday, Mar. 14, 2010

Updated: 8:59 am Tuesday, Mar. 16, 2010

Ancient grapes yield new flavors

tool name

close
tool goes here

In a wine world that seems to be all about chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and merlot, it’s good to know there are stubborn producers out there who insist on continuing to grow lesser-known but tried-and-true varieties.

In Italy, winemakers are seeking to keep or bring back grapes that may be native or may have been imported 2,000 years ago from Spain, Greece or even Persia.

  • PICK OF THE WEEK

    Tablas Creek 2007 Mourvedre ($35) Tablas Creek’s flagship blend is dominated by mourvedre, and the winery also makes this single-varietal bottling. It’s dark and slightly earthy, with ripe, spicy black fruit and firm tannins. Drink with something hearty.

Near the many-towered Tuscan town of San Gimignano, the husband-and- wife team of Teruzzi and Puthod are blending vernaccia, an aromatic grape that may date to the Greeks, with crisply mineral vermentino, spicy malvasia and modern chardonnay grapes to produce Teruzzi & Puthod Terre di Tufi.

On the Italian island of Sardinia, the Sella & Mosca estate is one of the last vineyards growing the ancient torbato grape — a challenging proposition because its fruit is heavy and its stems fragile.

In the Puglia region, near the heel of Italy’s boot, the iconic Antinori family has combined two huge wine estates — Bocca di Lupo in the north and Masseria Maime in the south—under the Tormaresca brand. Each estate has its own modern winery set amid ancient farm buildings.

Antinori’s idea is to reintroduce grapes—aglianico, negroamaro, primitivo— that have grown there for more than 2,000 years ago, and to soften their austere, tannic nature with modern production methods.

The Antinoris also make vermentino wines in the Maremma, the southern part of Tuscany. They claim it picks up flavors of the salty Mediterranean air, making it a perfect accompaniment to seafood.

In the Tuscan region called Vino Nobile di Montalcino, the Tenimenti Anelini family has added cabernet sauvignon to its traditional blend of sangiovese and canaiolo to create a powerful and fruity wine called Trerose.

I say let’s raise a glass to these stubborn winemakers and their distinctive grapes.

Highly recommended

2003 Tormaresca Torcicoda Salento IGT (primitivo grape): soft and rich, with black plum flavors; warm and generous; $24.

2006 Teruzzi & Puthod Terre di Tufi, Toscana IGT (vernaccia, chardonnay, malvasia, vermentino): rich, crisp and intensely fruity, with aromas and flavors of citrus and mangoes; $21.

Recommended

2004 Tormaresca Bocca di Lupo, Castel del Monte DOC (aglianico): red plum and clove aromas and flavors; firm tannins; muscular; long finish; $36.

2004 Tormaresca Masseria Maime Salento IGT (negroamaro): soft and lightly sweet, with black cherry, licorice and espresso aromas and flavors; $34.

2006 Teruzzi & Puthod Rondolino Vernaccia, San Gimignano DOCG: light, crisp and lively, with tart apple and mineral aromas and flavors; $14.

2007 Sella & Mosca Terre Bianche Torbato, Alghero DOC, Sardinia: hints of oak; very crisp and rich, with vanilla and citrus aromas and flavors; $20.

About comments

Reader comments on SanLuisObispo.com are the opinions of the writer, not The Tribune. If you see an objectionable comment, click the "report abuse" button below it. We will delete comments containing inappropriate links, obscenities, hate speech, and personal attacks. Flagrant or repeat violators will be banned. See more about comments here.

What you should know about comments on SanLuisObispo.com

SanLuisObispo.com is happy to provide a forum for reader interaction, discussion, feedback and reaction to our stories. However, we reserve the right to delete inappropriate comments or ban users who can't play nice. See our full terms of service here.

Here are some rules of the road:

  • Keep your comments civil. Don't insult one another or the subjects of our articles. If you think a comment violates our guidelines click the "report abuse" button. Responding to the comment will only encourage bad behavior.
  • Don't use profanities, vulgarities or hate speech. This is a general interest news site. Sometimes, there are children present. Don't say anything in a way you wouldn't want your own child to hear.
  • Do not attack other users; focus your comments on issues, not individuals.
  • Stay on topic. Only post comments relevant to the article at hand. If you want to discuss an issue with a specific user, click on his profile name and leave him a public message.
  • Do not copy and paste outside material into the comment box.
  • Don't repeat the same comment over and over. We heard you the first time.
  • Do not use the commenting system for advertising. That's spam and it isn't allowed.
  • Don't use all capital letters. That's akin to yelling and not appreciated by the audience.

You should also know that The Tribune does not screen comments before they are posted. You are more likely to see inappropriate comments before our staff does, so we ask that you click the "report abuse" button to submit those comments for moderator review. You also may notify us via email at webmaster@thetribunenews.com. Note the headline on which the comment is made and tell us the profile name of the user who made the comment. Remember, comment moderation is subjective. You may find some material objectionable that we won't and vice versa.

If you submit a comment, the username of your account will appear along with it. Users cannot remove their own comments once they have submitted them, but you may ask our staff to retract one of your comments by sending an email to webmaster@thetribunenews.com. Again, make sure you note the headline on which the comment is made and tell us your profile name.

Our news, your way

Get breaking news on your cell phone

Sign up for breaking news alerts from SanLuisObispo.com and get the latest news sent to your cell phone via text message.

Type in your cell phone number

( ) -

I accept the terms and conditions (click to view)

Keep your phone handy!

Upon hitting the Sign up! button, you will receive a message with a four-digit code at the end. Enter this number on the next screen and press the Confirm button.

Terms and Conditions:

By signing up for alerts from this site, you are signing up for a program that may include up to 5 SMS text alert(s) per alert category per day. There is no service fee charged per month but your carrier's standard text messaging and other charges may apply. You may stop this subscription service at any time by sending the text message "STOP" to 72737. You must be at least thirteen (13) years of age to use our alert services. If you are between 13 and 17 years old, you agree that you have received parental permission both to complete the registration process and to receive SMS content on your cell phone. For help, send the text message "HELP" to 72737. This service will work with ATT, Verizon, Sprint, Nextel, Alltell, US Cellular, Cincinnati Bell, Boost, Virgin Mobile USA, Celluar South, Telos, Centennial, East Kentucky Network, Cellcom, Immix and Rural Celluar.

Quick Job Search
Top Jobs